Crochet Top / Blusinha

Materials

• Barroco #4 yarn, natural color (677 m / 590 tex per unit) — or, as an alternative, 2 strands of Anne yarn held together (gives the same thickness and effect)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (or thicker, if you prefer)
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Abbreviations

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• dc – double crochet

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Part 1: Foundation Chain

1. Chain approximately 82 cm worth of chain stitches (bust measurement, size S). Reduce by 5–10 cm for smaller sizes.
2. Join the chain into a circle with a sl st in the first chain.

Part 2: “Little Square” Rounds (9 rounds)

This section forms the open, lacy base of the top. It’s important that the total number of squares at the end of round 1 be an even number — count in twos to make sure of this.

Round 1:

1. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc).
2. Chain 1, skip 1 foundation chain, and work 1 dc in the next chain.
3. Repeat this pattern (ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc) all the way around.
4. Join with a sl st into the 3rd chain of the starting ch-3.

Rounds 2–9:

1. Chain 3 (1 dc), chain 1, then work 1 dc into the top of the next dc from the round below.
2. Repeat (ch 1, 1 dc into next dc) all the way around.
3. Join with a sl st into the 3rd chain of the starting ch-3.
4. Repeat this round until you have 9 rounds total of squares.

Reference measurement: 9 rounds of squares = approximately 12 cm in height.

Part 3: “Block” Rounds (6 rounds)

1. Check that your square count is still an even number.
2. Work into a chain space: chain 3 (1 dc) plus 2 more dc into the same space, forming a group of 3 dc.
3. Chain 1 to separate, skip the next foundation space, and work another group of 3 dc into the following space.
4. Repeat (3-dc group, ch 1, skipping a space each time) all the way around.
5. Join with a sl st into the 3rd chain of the starting ch-3.
6. For the following rounds, slip stitch across to the next chain space and repeat the same block pattern (groups of 3 dc separated by 1 chain) until you have 6 rounds total.

Reference measurement: 6 rounds of blocks = approximately 8.5 cm; combined with the squares section, the total height is about 20 cm.

Part 4: Dividing for the Neckline

1. Count your total number of “blocks” and divide that number in half: one half for the front, one half for the back. (Example from the video: 28 blocks total → 14 for the front and 14 for the back. If your number is odd, give the extra block to the back.)
2. Mark this division with stitch markers.
3. Divide the front section in half again (e.g., 14 blocks → 7 on each side) to shape the V-neck.

First side of the neckline

1. Start exactly where you closed off the last round with a sl st.
2. Chain 3 and work 3 dc into the next space.
3. Continue the block pattern (3 dc, ch 1 to separate) as before, but now working in back-and-forth rows instead of in the round.
4. Decrease one block each row: when you reach the last marked block, skip the separating chain — go straight into the space and work the dc, creating the decrease on that side.
5. Turn your work, chain 3, work 3 dc into the space, and keep decreasing one block per row until only 1 block remains.
6. Fasten off.

Second side of the neckline

1. Join the yarn into the first stitch of the block on the other side of the neckline division.
2. Repeat the exact same decrease process from the first side, working back-and-forth rows until only 1 block remains.
3. Don’t fasten off yet — the back section (which stays straight, with no neckline shaping) is left open so you can continue directly into the border.

Part 5: Border Around the Neckline and Armholes

Working all the way around the piece (neckline plus the straight back section):

1. At each dc from the base, work 2 sc (one on each side of the dc).
2. Along the back section (where there’s no neckline shaping), work 1 sc for each base dc and 1 sc into each chain space.
3. Repeat this pattern all the way around.
4. Join with a sl st at the starting point.

Part 6: Bottom Border

Start preferably at the top of a dc, at a side seam (so the join is hidden along the side).

Round 1:

1. Join the yarn, chain 1, and work 1 sc into it.
2. Continue: 1 sc into the next chain, 1 sc into the top of the next dc — alternating one sc per chain and one sc per dc, all the way around.
3. Join with a sl st into the first sc.

Rounds 2–3 (3-dc blocks):

1. Chain 3 (1 dc), work 2 more dc into the next sc, forming a group of 3 dc.
2. Chain 1 to separate, skip 1 base stitch, and work another 3-dc group into the next stitch.
3. Repeat (3-dc group, ch 1, skipping 1 stitch) all the way around.
4. Join with a sl st into the 3rd chain of the starting ch-3.
5. Repeat this round until you have 3 rounds total.

Part 7: Final Picot/Shell Edging

1. Slip stitch across to the next chain space.
2. In that space, chain 2 and work 3 dc into the same space.
3. Work 1 sc into the next chain space.
4. Repeat (ch 2 + 3 dc in space, 1 sc in the following space) all the way around.
5. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

Part 8: Straps

1. Make 2 crochet chain cords, each approximately 1.30 to 1.50 m long.
2. Thread each cord through the blocks at the top of the top, one on each side.
3. Cross the straps in front (or leave them straight, if you prefer) and tie a knot at the center front to adjust the fit at the bust.
4. Bring the ends to the back, thread them between the blocks, and tie a knot at the center back to adjust.
5. Adjust the fit as needed — since crochet stretches with wear, it’s better to leave the straps adjustable rather than fixed in place.

Finishing and Final Measurements

• Total length of the piece (from the tip of the neckline to the bottom edge): approximately 37 cm.
• To make the top larger, add extra rounds to any of the three main sections: squares, blocks, or the bottom border.
• Approximate weight of the finished piece: 157 g — very economical in terms of yarn used.